The Open Championship, golf’s oldest and most revered major, holds a special place in the hearts of Irish golf fans, and for good reason. The 153rd Open Championship returns to the hallowed grounds of Royal Portrush Golf Club in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, from July 13–20. This marks a momentous occasion, as Royal Portrush hosts The Open for the third time in its illustrious history, following memorable championships in 1951 and, more recently, 2019. That 2019 return saw an emotional, historic victory for Irishman Shane Lowry, who captured the hearts of a nation with his dominant performance.
“As Royal Portrush prepares once again to welcome the world’s best golfers, it is the perfect time to revisit this previously published, yet timeless, journey through Ireland’s unparalleled golf experiences,” says Ian Paul Lawrence, publisher of The 19th Hole Magazine. “Award-winning golf and travel journalist Anita Draycott brings the Emerald Isle to life with unmatched insight and passion.”
The following celebrated feature by Draycott invites readers to explore the breathtaking beauty, historic charm, and world-class challenge of Ireland’s legendary Irish links courses.
Images Courtesy of Royal Portrush (above) and Rosapenna (below)
Courtesy of Royal Portrush (above) and Rosapenna (below)
It’s hardly a secret that the Emerald Isle is home to many world-class golf courses. But with nearly one-third of the entire world’s Irish links courses, Ireland truly is nirvana for golf as it was meant to be played. How’s that for the luck of the Irish?
“Links courses were meant to be walked, either shouldering your bag or pushing a trolley.”
The main reason we golf addicts cross the Atlantic is the undeniable lure of the Irish links. But for pampered North American swingers, the first encounter with a true links course may come as a bit of a shock. Forget wall-to-wall fairways, precise yardage markers, or ever-present cart girls. “Buggies,” as carts are called in Ireland, are few and far between. Links courses were meant to be walked, either shouldering your bag or pushing a “trolley.” Better still, hire a caddie, not just for judicious advice on the quirky bounces, but also for the local color and a deeper appreciation of the course’s nuances. Expect to lose plenty of Titleists in the unforgiving rough and taste the salt in the invigorating air. Irish links were created primarily by Mother Nature, carved through dramatic dunes that connect land and sea. This is golf in its purest, most authentic form.
On my first trip to Ireland, I tossed my clubs into the “boot” of the rental car, opened the left front door, and realized the steering wheel was on the right. Jet lag may have had something to do with it, but driving on the “wrong” side of the road can be stressful. On our last trip, our group wisely put the driving and planning into the capable hands of Carr Golf. Joe Carr, the company’s late founder, was one of Ireland’s greatest golf heroes with over 40 championships, including three British Amateur titles. Today, Joe’s son, Marty, runs the company, which was named Golf Digest’s “Best Tour Operator” in 2016.
Courtesy of Royal County Down (above) and Portmarnock (below)
With our input, Carr Golf handled everything from tee times and caddies to hotels and sightseeing. After our rounds, we piled into our comfortable coach while our driver, Senan, took care of the roads. That gave us more time to soak in the scenery and focus on what we came for—the Irish links.
“Our foursome, having played in Ireland on previous occasions, decided to combine top-ranked Irish links with a few lesser-known gems.”
Nothing cures jetlag like a round of golf in a stiff wind. That’s exactly what we encountered at Portmarnock Golf Club’s Old Course, located just 15 minutes from Dublin Airport. Pot bunkers abound, and the rough is long and fierce, setting the tone for an authentic Irish links challenge.
Portmarnock was the perfect warm-up for Royal County Down, which is often ranked as the number one golf course in the world.
“It’s one of those rare courses where you could feel a perfect handshake between the hand that created the land and the hand that shaped it into a golf course,” wrote Tom Coyne, author of A Course Called Ireland. Narrow ribbons of fairway wind through massive dunes surrounded by gorse and shaggy bunkers that are as beautiful as they are punishing.
Courtesy Royal Portrush
I knew my caddie, Brender, and I would get along when he suggested I play the “jubilee tees” on several holes that required long carries. “Where are they?” I asked. “Wherever we want them to be,” he said with a wink. Royal County Down is difficult for the pros and downright humbling for a high handicapper like me.
Many consider hole number nine to be the pinnacle. You launch your ball over a towering hill covered in gorse, down to a fairway 80 yards below. Royal County Down may be excruciating or exhilarating, but one thing is certain—you’ll never forget this Irish links legend.
The morning we arrived at Royal Portrush on Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast, I wondered if we should start building an ark.
What an Irishman calls “a bit of a breeze and a mist,” I would call a gale-force wind and a driving rain.
“Should we wait until it clears a bit?” I asked the starter. “It’s looking pretty good now,” he said, just as my umbrella blew inside out. We decided to play this Harry Colt-designed gem, come hell or high water.
When my ball blew off the tee and Rory, my shivering caddie, muttered, “I’m glad it’s you playing in this wind and not me,” I knew we were in for a battle on the links.
Royal Portrush underwent significant renovations to its championship Dunluce Links in preparation for hosting The Open in 2019. Those enhancements have only strengthened its place among the world’s elite. Calamity Corner, now the 16th hole, demands a bold drive over a massive chasm. Next comes Purgatory, where you aim at a striped pole and hope for the best.
Courtesy of Portstewart Golf Club (above) and Rosapenna Golf Resort (below)
Rory McIlroy has said that Portstewart’s front nine is one of the toughest he has ever played.
Just minutes west of Portrush, the Strand Course at Portstewart Golf Club offers breathtaking views from its elevated first tee. The jagged coastline stretches in all directions. If the sun graces you, as it did us, you’re in for a treat. Rory McIlroy has said that Portstewart’s front nine is one of the toughest he has ever played. That’s saying something when it comes to Irish links.
There are many more iconic Irish links along the Causeway Coast, but we decided to venture farther west to explore a few lesser-known masterpieces. Rosapenna Golf Resort, perched above Sheephaven Bay, has challenged players since 1893, when Old Tom Morris carved out nine holes through the dunes. A hundred years later, a new Strand nine replaced the old front nine, resulting in a beautiful combination of classic and modern links. A life-size statue of Old Tom Morris still stands proudly beyond the 18th green.
We ended our journey at The Dunes Course at Enniscrone, which dates back to 1918. Stretching 7,033 yards, it’s a thrilling trek through valleys and towering dunes, with sweeping views of Killala Bay. The 17th hole is particularly memorable. “Just like the 17th at Sawgrass,” the yardage book says, “except more natural—150 yards of terror when the wind blows.” Aim well, and enjoy the view, even if your shot doesn’t cooperate.
Courtesy of Lahinch Golf Club (above) and Ballybunion (below)
After rounds at Royal Portrush and Portstewart, follow the scent of peat smoke to the Bushmills Inn.
There’s a unique magic in Ireland. It’s found in every cozy pub, every windswept fairway, and every local with a clever grin. Plan time for sightseeing, pub crawls, and spontaneous adventures. They’re as much a part of the Irish links journey as the golf itself.
It’s fitting that Royal County Down sits beside the elegant Slieve Donard Resort and Spa. This Victorian-era hotel offers grand views of the Irish Sea and a luxurious spa with a bubbling vitality pool. Breakfast in the Oak Restaurant is unforgettable. I learned there that porridge is best with cream and a splash of whiskey.
After rounds at Royal Portrush and Portstewart, follow the scent of peat smoke to the Bushmills Inn. Warm yourself by the fire, enjoy an Ulster fry, and then explore the nearby Giant’s Causeway. Its 40,000 basalt columns are one of nature’s true marvels. Cap it all off with a tour and tasting at Old Bushmills Distillery, where whiskey has been flowing since 1608.
Courtesy of Slieve Donard Resort and Spa
We broke up the drive to Rosapenna with a stop in Londonderry. Our guide, Senan, took us on a walking tour of the city’s historic walls. It was the perfect blend of culture and fresh air before diving back into the Irish links.
At Rosapenna Hotel & Golf Resort, off-course activities abound. Swim in the indoor pool, book a spa treatment, or stroll the coastal trails. At the Vardon Restaurant, named after golfing great Harry Vardon, local lobster and crab pair perfectly with the sunset views.
After our round at Enniscrone, we stopped at Kilcullen’s Bath House, which has welcomed guests since 1912. There, you soak in hot seawater infused with fresh seaweed. It’s said to relieve stiffness and leave the skin soft and smooth. It’s the perfect recovery after a challenging round of links golf.
Courtesy of Mount Falcon Estate
And for something unforgettable, take a “hawk walk” with master falconer Jason Deasy.
Mount Falcon Estate lies within an hour’s drive of 12 Irish links courses, including Enniscrone. Even non-golfers will appreciate its charm. Golf pro Mark O’Meara often visits to fish for wild salmon on the River Moy, where the estate has exclusive rights.
Originally a baronial lodge, the estate reopened in 2006 with beautifully restored manor rooms and luxury lodges. It’s an ideal home base for golf groups. At the Kitchen Restaurant, Chef Willimont crafts dishes from estate-grown produce. Imagine turnip and horseradish soup, salmon with gin and beet purée, and apple cobbler with elderflower and cassis. Sip your nightcap in the lively Boathole Bar.
And for something unforgettable, take a “hawk walk” with master falconer Jason Deasy. Stroll the woods with his dog Chili and a Harris hawk named Arizona perched on your glove. With a six-foot wingspan and razor-sharp talons, Arizona is a marvel to witness in flight. It’s a powerful experience, one that rivals even the best Irish links.
